MONDAY | We arrived to a damp and soggy centre of Tulum just after 3pm. Taxi negotiated, we were quickly on our way towards the beach and our rustic chic home for the next three nights Punta Piedra hotel. After dropping our bags in our delightful room we explored the hotel before heading to the front bar Movida, for our complementary welcome drink. We chatted with the blonde Mexican (this had Ash a little stumped) bar tender and heard all about his Australian adventure that he had just returned from. Story time over we wandered down the Tulum strip and settled on an outdoor seat at El Pez for some dips and happy hour Margaritas. With our sense of adventure liquefied, on the way home we decided to wander into the phenomenal eco-lodge that is Azulik. Pretending like we belonged we walked the rickety wooden paths above the water ways that make up this magical tree-house hotel until returning to the bar and settling in for a drink. Minimal electrical lighting is used so the bar was swarming with candles creating a moody enchanted atmosphere, making us feel even more out of place. We finished our beverages, declined an opportunity to take pictures on the free hanging nets and strolled back to our humble adorable abode. TUESDAY | Pink light from the dawn seeped into our room on our first morning in Tulum stirring us awake. I rose to meet it and watch from the beach as the sun made its ascent whilst Ash eased into the day with a snooze. Breakfast was served to us at the dining room/shack overlooking the beach. The agenda for the day involved hiring bikes and pedalling around Tulum. Despite my reality checks, Ash had whimsical notions about majestically riding our bikes around in thongs as the wind fluttered in our sea soaked hair. Two minutes in I checked behind me and noticed Ash a far distant down the road, the reality of the effort pedalling takes (especially on a 30+ degree day) had settled in on her face. It was a slow ride to the ruins and by the time we'd parked, had a refreshing break and Ashs shakes had worn off we headed in, joined by mass groups of American tourist. Although busy the benefit was we we're able to wander along next to the tour groups, absorb their tour guides knowledge and then shuffle along to the next section witho0u having to loiter with the groups. It is also lizard mating season so the ruins were overrun with horny male lizards aggressively pursuing their lady of choice. Having seen enough of non-consensual procreation we pedalled to the nearby 'village' which was just a tourist haven of nick-nack shops. It was here I received my first marriage proposal. By a 40-year-old Mexican man who was besotted with my baby blues. I told him I would consider his proposition and we continued our way. Next up we rode into town and mazed our way through the streets. Under the glaring sun we cruised around snapping the street art and trying to locate a venue for lunch (and an escape from the heat). Tucked in between a few tourist hot spots Ash spotted Pasito Tun Tun. We parked our bicycles and took reprieve from the heat in the divinely decorated courtyard. Palm trees contrasted against timber furniture adored with orange and green patterned cushions, this oasis became our sanctuary as we nibbled on lunch and sipped our cokes. Our energy returned we headed back to Tulum on our bikes with a detour to one of the only "public" beaches along the strip. It was challenging to locate a spare patch of white sand to ditch our stuff, but once secured to the beat of the busking drummer we streamlined into the aqua ocean. Having washed away the accumulated biking sweat and Ash finally having the hang of the biking situation we were off again pedalling back along the Tulum strip and settled on a taco bar for second lunch & a mojito. Despite our recent dip in the ocean the pounding heat had once again sunk in and so we did something I never thought I'd do - we sat at the bar in our swim suits eating our food and sipping our drinks. No one around us battered an eyelid and so we eased into our new found liberation. Needing to return our bikes we made a slight detour on the way home, breaking through a hole in the fence to a hotels private beach so we could capture the momentous day of riding with a beach photograph. With sore bums and tired legs we bid farewell to our bikes, with Ash catching the last few rays on the beach whilst I went for a swim. Thoroughly exhausted we prepped for dinner, ducked into the hotel bar for a cocktail before hailing a cab to take us to Simple - the trendy seafood joint of the area. It's food, decor and attitude of the staff is epitomised in its name. It was a laid back divinely fresh meal served by friendly chilled Mexican hipsters. Appetites satisfied we strolled the up-market shops of the north end of Tulum before retiring our tired bodies into a cab. It should have been an easy early night at home, but upon returning to the hotel and checking in on some life admin it became evident that my credit card had been hacked. The third card between Ash and I that had been compromised in the space of a week. A quick call lead me to learn that a gent called Joffrey had obtained my details and had been booking flights on my card. After a lengthy call with ANZ Joffrey’s spending spree was cut off and my card was cancelled. A frustrating end to a gloriously whimsical day. WEDNESDAY | We woke up with one thing on the cards for today: cenotes. After a low key breakfast at the hotel overlooking the ocean we jumped in a taxi and made our way to El Grande' Cenote. After locking everything up we dipped into the cool cave water. The next hour was spent swimming around exploring in awe the natural perfection we'd found ourselves in. Post swim we basked in the sun to dry off and listen to the musical talents of an American tourist who was playing her Ukulele for those of us sunbathing.
Ready for the next cenote we drive 20 minutes out of town to Casa Cenote and unlike the previous one this is an open mangroves style. As soon as we walked up Mikey a local tour guide jumped on as and shortly after money exchanged and we were hooked up with flippers, snorkels and for Ash a lifejacket. With Mikey leading the way we swam through the crystal-clear water, observing the wildlife and letting Mikey entertain us. With a little coaxing Mikey and I managed to coax Ash to swim under the mangroves, popping up along the way for fresh air - it was a tad challenging at first because of her life jacket but after she shook it off she was back in action. There was a tad more confusion from Ash as to why the Mexicans had put rocks up into the trees but Mikey and I we quickly able to clear this up by point out they were beehives and not in fact giant rocks resting in the mangrove trees. On our return swim we were joined by another form of wildlife an alligator. Ash thought Mikey was pointing for her to swim back under the mangroves but it quickly dawned on us he was pointing at the alligator basking in the sun that we were swimming past. It's fair to say it was a quick swim back through the mangroves and into shore. My heart rate still racing we bid farewell to Mikey and we headed across to the beach for a beverage and some lunch in the sun. We began our evening as we had the previous two, back at the hotel bar sampling our blonde bartenders handy work. Drinks consumed we taxied into the city centre and we hit up La Malquerida for a traditional Mexican feast. Stomachs thoroughly filled we headed next door to Pasito Tun Tun and became acquainted with the freshest faced eager bartender who talked us into trying a Mexican staple "mezcal" (or as I liked to call it due to the smell: paint stripper). Our adorable waiter rocked a backwards Nirvana hat but when pressed on the band he could offer very little, it was just a 'cool' gift he'd been given, we adored him all the same. With a Mexican jazz band setting up out the back we shifted seats and were soon joined by two Tulum locals. It became evident that the one supporting the Afro was Tulum royalty, everyone who walked past stopped to say hello and upon questioning we learned he was a local big shot bar tender, we named him Mr. Famous. His quieter buddy was rocking some epic facial hair and so he was coined Mr. Moustache. Over the course of the evening we chatted with them and the other locals around us in broken English. In addition to beverages and chats they shared with us their hand popping fireworks - you throw them to the floor and bang. It was mayhem and madness and whole lot of fun. The band wore down and the bar was packed with the local hipster sec of Tulum. Joining in our chats was the dreadlocked drummer from the beach the day before. Between him, Mr moustache, Mr Famous and Nirvana we were not short of attention or conversation. Home time happened around the 2am mark when with heavy hearts we bid farewell to our new friends and cabbed it out of the city centre. THURSDAY | The following morning was rough. We dragged ourselves out of bed. Ate breakfast before I went swimming and ash went back to bed. Check out loomed over us and so we threw everything in our bags, ditched them with reception and went and hung at the beach on the sun beds. With the afternoon setting in it came time to shake off the hangovers and make our way out into the Jungle. Coba awaited.
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