MONDAY | The road north to Princeville consisted of overgrown paddocks and lush landscapes used as back drops to Jurassic Park films. Just as quickly as we got used to the untamed surroundings we found ourselves turning off and being welcomed to the suburb by the mammoth erupting Neptune trident fountain. We navigated our way passed the immaculate manicured lawns of the Golf Course and the pristine flower beds of the Country club to arrive at Hanalei Bay Resort. Check-In was a slow and tedious process as the receptionist fielded phone calls as well as tended to the line of people eager to collect their keys and head to the pool. Map in hand we headed down the stairs to locate our abode and after getting lost and ending up on the other side of the resort Ash took control of the situation and we located our Condo tucked away in the residents’ section of the resort. Bags flung on the floor we took a moment to stare in awe of our view. It was impossible not to imagine that out of the towering greenery a dinosaur could appear, or at least for me it did. Then it was off to the cliff top bar to sip on Happy Hour drinks whilst overlooking the resort whilst a local band provided some background tunes. The waiter looking after us was a stereotypical surfer dude in his 50s who just wanted to talk to us about the narly surf scene in Oz and the chilled subdued life in Hawaii. The timing of our drinks and snacks finishing and the sun beginning to set aligned perfectly so we headed off through resort past the lagoon pool, down the steep driveway, across the tennis courts, under the tree archway and then out to the beach just in time to watch the sky turn a phenomenal mix of yellow, orange, lilac and coral. In addition to gazing at the colourful passing of time we had the added entertainment of watching a couple from the neighboring hotel head out to snorkel. With no lights on. The female companion shrieked through her breathing apparatus and floundered around whilst her partner tried to coax her out into the dark murky water. With the last remaining remnants of light in the sky and the free golf buddy service no longer running we made the trek back up the mountain side to the resort. Dripping with sweat and barely an ounce of breath left in us I decided a twilight swim, in my dress, was on the cards. Ash could not be coaxed into joining me for a refreshing dusk swim so I splashed around alone until the sun had set and the we wandered home through the tropical gardens lit up the tiki flames. TUESDAY | The day got off to a shrieking start as the concierge called at 7am to enquire if we wanted to utilise her services. We did not. What we had wanted was to enjoy a sleep in but with that option stripped away we bundled into the car and headed into town. Wake Up café had come highly recommended and it did not disappoint. Run by a mother duo daughter the small and space is housed in a dull turquoise blue plantation style home with the interior made up of plastic flower table clothes, plastic chairs and walls covered in photographs of family and friends. The heat was already beginning to seep through the open veranda so we snapped up a table tucked inside. The menu was basic, the coffee was tart and the service was rudimentary. We spent the remainder of the morning strolling around the diverse shops scattered in and around the old plantation houses. The heat hit you every time you wandered out of a store and despite the hordes of people everyone moved around slowly and quietly under the glaring sun. Expect one lady who followed Ash around a store hoping the skirt she’d picked out wouldn’t fit so that she could purchase it herself. Alas her efforts failed and Ash walked away with a snazzy new piece for her wardrobe. Money spent of gifts, clothes and art work we decided to take a time out at the beach. A two-minute drive had us rocking up at Hanalei Pavilion Beach just at the right moment to score a car spot and then a place under a tree next to two old birds lounging in their beach chairs next to a stand full of pamphlets about Jesus. It was an ideal spot to dry off after a swim, read our books and watch with amusement as people danced along the sand as the heat burnt their feet. The nearby life guards found enormous joy in watching people dash and hop up the safety of the grass. Baked and dazed we ducked back into town to grab a late lunch from the popular eatery Kalypso. The wait was minimal and before long we were digging into fresh salmon salads and sipping ice cold water. Ready to continue doing nothing we headed back to the resort and claimed a spot beside the pool. For the remainder of the afternoon we floated between our lounge chairs and the sweet reprieve from the heat in the comfort of the pool. Hair shaggy and faces sun kissed we made our way back into town to indulge in some Japanese at the Sushi lounge at the Dolphin Restaurant. The meal consisted of the freshest sushi we had ever enjoyed and was topped off with a couple of Namolo Kama cocktail (a premium version of a Pina Colada). Sitting at the bar the entertainment of the evening came in equal parts from watching the flurry of activity by the bar tenders and from the couple in their 60’s on a first date beside us. We made it back to the resort in time to head over to the garden lounge and watch the sun set over the bay and the storm clouds to gather. The sun had barely disappeared over the horizon when the sky opened up and the chubby rain began to fall. There was no point trying to out run it but never ones to just accept fate we squealed and squished in our thongs as we attempted to dart back to our room. We arrived thoroughly soaked and absolutely spent. WEDNESDAY | The fierce tropical sun beckoned us awake mid-morning and enticed us out into the sizzling heat of the last day of autumn. A quick breakfast was enjoyed in our unit before we gathered our beach belongings and trekked our way down to Hanalei Bay Beach. By the time we winded down through the resort the fresh clear water was beckoning and so I abandoned my belongings & Ash under the palm trees and headed for the water. My pattern for the next couple of hours was sun, water, sun, shade, sun, water. Ash joined me sporadically for a swim but mostly her time was spent baking in the sun listening to tunes. The day eased away from us and were happy to let it slip by as we soaked in the sweltering tropical vibes. It was a moment of rare stillness after days of exploring and experiencing. Our skin a little taunt and my hair a frizz from the salt and sun we finally ventured back to the room mid-afternoon for a snack. Although the crisp air-con was comforting it felt like a waste to spend what was left of the day sprawled out in the sofa and so I headed up to the pool. Towel cast in the shade I was quick to be back in the water where I proceed to flap about in the water exploring the man mad boroughs and mini sand beaches that made up the tropical themed scenery surrounding the pool. Ash emerged at a late point in the afternoon and we spent the final hours of afternoon submerged in our books, music and the salty pool water. Dinner required us to leave the sanctuary of the resort and head into the township for replenishment. A local Ash had spoken to suggested to check out Piazza, a new country-chic Italian eatery that had set up shop in Princeville. The sleek modern interior and swanky gourmet menu felt a tad out of place in the green lush beach landscape that dominated the area, but the food and drinks were delicious. By the time we’d scoffed down our meals the sun was still lighting up the day so we decided to defy the clock and head west to Ke’e beach to watch the sun descend. We zipped and darted along the overgrown foliage that lined the road. In contrast to the manicured lawns surrounding our resort this part of the island was nature at her best; overgrown, wild and free. As the sun slowly started to dip we raced along the rough road, along the one-way bridges and around the cliff top bends. We pulled into the carpark just as sky started to transform into a yellow and orange oasis. Settling into the sand we watched as another day slipped away from us and our last night on Kauai began. The drive back to our apartment along the dense shrubbery was slow, steady and sombre as the realisation that the adventure was winding down began to sink it. THURSDAY | The sun shone bright for us on our final morning in Princeville. With our morning flight looming we did not have the opportunity to enjoy the spoils of the resort, instead we packed up and zipped up and checked out. It was a stunning trip back through the lush greenery to the airport where our flight to the main island awaited us.
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